The east coast
Churned up by the Caribbean trade winds, the pounding waters of the
Atlantic have carved out a rough and jagged east coast on St Lucia, one
that up until now has been almost entirely ignored by visitors. Still characterized
for the most part by lively surf smashing against rocky and cliff-lined
shores and a verdant blanket of banana plants, the area is now undergoing a dramatic
condo, resort and golf course development, with concrete “reefs” put in to pacify the
incoming breakers. A number of secluded oases persist, providing both a visual and
atmospheric contrast to the more populated areas of the island.
St Lucia’s coastal highway parallels the eastern shoreline from Vieux Fort to
Dennery, where it cuts inland, heading up and over the rainforest to Castries. It’s
the preferred route for buses and taxis travelling the 33 miles between Vieux Fort
and the capital, but it’s still a little potholed and can make for a disconcerting drive.
Along the way, east-coast bus stops include Micoud, Desruisseaux, Mon Repos,
Praslin and Dennery, but erratic scheduling ensures that exploration by bus is not
particularly easy.
Micoud and the Fond Estate
Named in honour of the French Governor de Micoud who ruled St Lucia from
1768 to 1771, the small town of MICOUD spreads outwards from the sheltered
bay of Port Micoud. The suitability of the harbour for fishing (a rarity on the rough
coast) and the ready availability of fresh water from the Troumass?e River are
the principal factors cited by archeologists as reasons for the extensive Amerindian
presence here; some nine settlements are believed to have existed, all rapidly
abandoned after the arrival of the Europeans in the eighteenth century. Aside from
the quiet bay dotted with fishing boats and churches, Micoud is best known as an
enthusiastic focal point for two island-wide Carnivalesque religious festivals: La
Rose in August and La Marguerite in October; see p.629 for more on these.
Just north of town and well signposted from the main road is the Fond Estate,
home of a new and exciting quadbike tour run by ATV Paradise Tours
(T758/455-3245; Wwww.atvstlucia.com; no experience necessary). With the focus
as much on the scenery and history as on the bikes themselves, the guided trips last
three hours (US$120/bike based on two people per ATV or US$100/individual,
including drinks and safety helmets) with frequent stops: in the rainforest; by a
freshwater river for swimming; at a long-disused but well-preserved water-powered
sugar mill; and by the beach. Taking in this full variety of environments in half a day
is a rarity in the Caribbean, and well worth the effort to explore.
Mamiku Gardens and The Fox Grove Inn
Just a few minutes north of Micoud close to Mon Repos lies one of the most
serene places in St Lucia, the beautifully landscaped fifteen-acre Mamiku Gardens
(daily 9am–5pm; EC$20, or $25 with guide – call ahead to arrange a tour;
T758/455-3729, Wwww.mamiku.com). The former plantation is teeming with
brightly coloured blooms such as orchids, ginger and heliconia, as well as a variety
of birds including white-breasted thrashers and gold-crested orielles, and there’s a
Creole medicinal herb garden too. A network of short walking trails, each with
suitably located benches, provide a shaded way to explore the gardens; one trail
loops over the hilltop to the site of a former British army station where soldiers
fought the Brigands from 1794 (see History p.632) – some interesting boards help
to explain the history. Anyone interested in doing a longer walk here can join the
fortnightly guided hikes which go deeper into the rainforest. Back at the garden’s
main house, you can end a pleasant afternoon’s stroll with tea on the veranda amidst
a lovely variety of tropical plants.
A ten-minute walk southwest of the gardens is the east coast’s finest dining
and accommodation option, the A Fox Grove Inn (T758/455-3800, Wwww
.foxgroveinn.com; 2). The rooms are basic but charming, most with gorgeous seaviews
(only partially spoilt by the new resort and golf-course development), and
all have full breakfast included; two spacious two-bedroom apartments are available
weekly. A pool table and a large, inviting swimming pool are onsite. The reasonably
priced restaurant, open to non-guests as well, features delicately presented fresh
seafood and lobster (seasonally) – and a famous garlic soup – all prepared by a chef
with three decades’ experience at five-star hotels in Europe. Portions are generous,
the salads excellent (try the smoked king fish) and, as from the rooms, the views over
acres of banana plantation to Praslin Bay and the Fregates are second to none.

North to Mullins Bay
Once you’ve passed Holetown there is little of particular interest to hold you en
route north to Speightstown. A series of exclusive hotels and grand private houses,
fenced in behind security gates, is interspersed with small villages of shops, fishing
shacks and chattel houses, keeping a typically Bajan toehold on the increasingly
developed west coast. Good snorkelling can be found offshore from the Lone Star
hotel (see opposite), where endangered hawksbill turtles can often be spotted – look
out for the buoys and other snorkellers about 200m out. Further north, MULLINS
BEACH – a strip of sugary sand with a lively beach bar (see p.685) – is a good
place to stop for a swim.
Speightstown
Small, run-down, yet utterly charming, SPEIGHTSTOWN (pronounced “Spikestown”)
is Barbados’s second town. It was once a thriving port and three major forts
were erected to protect it. While the place has declined precipitately over the last
century, and remained largely untouched by tourist development, recent years have
seen attempts to preserve some of the town’s historical character. The narrow streets
are lined with old-fashioned Georgian-style shops, their galleries propped up on
wooden pillars, projecting over the pavements.
Buses running up the west coast normally terminate at Speightstown bus station
at the eastern end of Church Street. From here, head down towards the sea, passing
on your right St Peter’s Parish Church (daily 9am–5pm; free). Across from the
church, facing the sea, you’ll find locals chatting, enjoying a bite to eat or reading
the local paper in the shade of the redeveloped esplanade. You are now in Queen
Street, Speightstown’s main drag, which has several grand old buildings that have
survived the town’s decline. Midway down the street on the left-hand side stands
Arlington House (Mon–Sat 9am–5am, B$25; BNT), a classic example of the
island’s early townhouses – narrow, tall and gabled, with a sharply sloping roof and
balcony. The state-of-the-art interactive museum inside the house is a must, offering
fascinating insights into to the town’s bygone times, including audio memories and
chronicles of the port’s illustrious history. Up in the attic, the port’s wharf has been
re-created with appropriate light and sound effects, complete with imported sand
and virtual fish and turtles. There are also several entertaining hands-on exhibits:
steering a ship through the Caribbean, or experiencing a hurricane, or, if that all
sounds too energetic, chill out on the veranda with a sandwich and a glass of wine
from the adjoining Caf? Mojo.
Directly across the street from Arlington House is the Gallery of Caribbean
Art (Mon–Fri 9.30am–4.30pm, Sat 9.30am–2pm), which features three rooms of
sculpture and paintings by artists from Barbados and the Caribbean. Most pieces
are for sale.
Eating, drinking and nightlife
Plenty of pricey top-notch restaurants line the “Platinum Coast” though there are
a few less expensive options.. Particularly recommended are some of the informal
stalls that appear on Friday and Saturday evenings dishing up fresh fish (accompanied
by rice and peas, macaroni pie, breadfruit and various other filling favourites).
You’re guaranteed a full plateful for around B$25 and it’s a great way to meet locals.
Places like the Fisherman’s Pub in Speightstown and Merton’s at Half Moon Fort
are worth checking out, whatever your budget. Nightlife tends to be pretty quiet
and limited to floor shows put on by the more exclusive hotels though one or two
places sometimes offer live local bands.