Eastern Washington
The dry expanse of eastern Washington has little in common with its green,
western counterpart: olive-colored sagebrush covers many acres, and massive red
rocks loom over the prairies, while huge bare patches of basalt and torn-away
groundcover (from centuries of Ice Age floods) give the area the unattractive
geological moniker of the “channeled scablands.” To the south lies the lower
Yakima Valley, with miles of orchards and farms, which make it one of the largest
producers of apples in the world. Of eastern Washington’s major towns, only
Spokane has any degree of cultural life, but some are decent bases for outdoor
activities such as fishing, hiking, and skiing.
Ellensburg and Yakima
East of the mountains along I-90, 130 miles from Seattle, ELLENSBURG is the
first notable stop. The dusty little burg of fetching nineteenth-century red-brick
architecture is mainly known for its Ellensburg Rodeo (tickets start at $12;
t509/962-7831 or 1-800/637-2444, wwww.ellensburgrodeo.com), held over
Labor Day weekend, with Stetson-clad cowhands roping steers, riding bulls, and
braving bucking broncos.
Greyhound stops at 1512 Hwy-97. The visitor center, 609 N Main St (Mon–
Fri 8am–5pm; t509/925-3138, wwww.ellensburg-chamber.com), provides
maps and hotel options; one safe choice is the basic Ellensburg Inn, 1700 Canyon
Rd (t509/925-9801; wwww.ellensburginn.com; 4). The Art Deco Valley Caf?,
103 W Third Ave (t509/925-3050), is a good place to dine on eclectic American
fare.
To the south on I-82, the agricultural hub of YAKIMA has few attractions,
but is an excellent base to visit the tasting rooms of the excellent vintners scattered
throughout the Yakima Valley (information at t1-800/258-7270, wwww.
wineyakimavalley.com). Wine-tour maps, as well as lodging and dining information,
can be found at the visitor center, 10 N Eighth St (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm;
t1-800/221-0751, wwww.visityakima.com). Greyhound stops nearby at 602
E Yakima Ave. Standard-issue motels and diners abound along N First Street;
worth noting are Gasparetti’s, no. 1013 (t509/248-0628), and Santiago’s, 111 E
Yakima Ave (t509/453-1644), providing agreeable Italian and Mexican fare,
respectively. There’s camping across the Yakima River on Hwy-24 at Sportsman
State Park ($15–21; t509/575-2774 or 1-800/562-0990).

Spokane
A few miles past the Idaho border on I-90, SPOKANE (“spo-CAN”), eastern
Washington’s only real city of any size, has some grandiose late nineteenth-century
buildings – built on the spoils of nearby Idaho silver mines – though its
heyday is long gone. Still, its pleasant parks and striking architecture can nicely
fill a half-day. The town’s hub, hundred-acre Riverfront Park, was the site of
the 1974 World’s Fair and sprawls over two islands in the middle of the Spokane
River, which tumbles down the rocky shelves of Spokane Falls. The attractions
(day-passes $15; June–Aug Sun–Thurs 11am–8pm, Fri & Sat 11am–10pm;
wwww.spokaneriverfrontpark.com) include an ice-skating rink, the charming
hand-carved Looff Carousel ($2), and the Spokane Falls Skyride ($6), which
rises above the falls to take in a commanding view of the area.
Most of the relics of Spokane’s early grandeur can be found several blocks southwest
on West Riverside Avenue, where Neoclassical facades cluster around Jefferson
Street. The city’s other architectural highlights include the Clark Mansion,
2208 W Second Ave, an 1897 marvel of lovely classical arcades and red-tiled roofs,
and the Tudor Revival splendor of the Campbell House, 2316 W First Ave. The
latter can be toured as a part of the Northwest Museum of Art and Culture, at
the same site (Tues–Sun 11am–5pm; $7; wwww.northwestmuseum.org). The
museum focuses on regional history and artwork, Native American culture, and
fine arts from WPA-era paintings to items from nineteenth-century Japan and
seventeenth-century Holland.
Practicalities
Amtrak and Greyhound share the transit center at 221 W First St, and the visitor
center is at 201 W Main St (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; t509/747-3230 or 1-800/776-
5263, wwww.visitspokane.com). Nice accommodations include the 1914 A
Davenport Hotel, 10 S Post St (t1-800/899-1482, wwww.thedavenporthotel.
com; 7), with its wildly ornate lobby and spacious, well-designed suites; and
the West Coast Ridpath, 515 W Sprague Ave (t509/838-2711, wwww.westcoasthotels.
com; 4), a 265-room hotel with good views over the city. There’s also
camping in Riverside State Park ($15–21; t509/456-3964), six miles northwest
off Hwy-291. For eating, Luna, 5620 S Perry St (t 509/448-2383), serves up
delicious, pricey Northwest Cuisine and cheaper gourmet pizzas, while Mizuna,
214 N Howard St (t509/747-2004), has upscale seafood and regional cuisine, as
well as a mean muscovy duck.